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Rick Owens SS27 Stone: Webbing Gowns at the Palais

Rick Owens showed Stone on Oct. 1 in Paris: webbing gowns, sulfur-dyed denim and cage shoes. What walked, what he said and where reports differ.

Noor MalikIssue 422026-10-18
Designer Rick Owens at Paris Fashion Week, Sept. 27, 2018

Rick Owens turned to the foundations of his own style for Spring/Summer 2027. His women's show, titled Stone, ran on Oct. 1 at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris during Paris Fashion Week, and it paired rigid industrial gowns with weathered, torn and bleached pieces. Dazed's report of the show gives the clearest picture of what was sent down the runway.

The idea of stone

Stone is the foundation of Owens's world, Dazed writes, present in his craggy, geological silhouettes, his palette of chalk, dust and coal and the brutalist forms of his showrooms and the concrete courtyard where he shows at the Palais. For this season he went back to that material and named the collection after it.

In show notes quoted by Dazed, the word carries three meanings for Owens: the elegant stoicism of stone itself, the stone thrown aside at the resurrection of Christ, which he sees as a metaphor for release after sacrifice, and what he calls the all-too-common stone throwing that he says he has made his life's modest mission to oppose. Those are the designer's own words, and the interpretations are his.

What walked

The opening looks were structured. Dazed describes rigid ivory column gowns made from industrial nylon webbing, the kind normally used to secure shipping crates, woven into double-duchesse satin. Owens described the garments in show notes as slabs of rigid fabric crossed with girdered lines. The shapes continued with enormous geometric collars, exaggerated fishtail skirts and sharp bustles that jutted from models' bodies.

Later the stone began to weather. Sheer dresses split open across the body, and white fabric cocooned around torsos. Japanese denim dyed with sulfur was bleached into mottled gradients across flowing trousers, micro jackets and distressed tunics.

Owens also revisited the tensegrity constructions from his recent menswear show, lattice-like structures held up by a network of continuous tension. For women, he swapped latex and leather for what he called frothy tulle négligées, though Dazed says they looked closer to worms writhing beneath a lifted rock. The review notes jeweled cage-like shoes, reflective visor sunglasses, enormous feathered lashes placed off-center and a handful of what Dazed calls harsh Chelsea cuts, all in line with the house uniform. The soundtrack was by Sissymisfit.

Where it fits in Paris

Paris Fashion Week's women's calendar for Spring/Summer 2027 ran from Sept. 28 to Oct. 6 with 68 shows, according to Vogue's cheat sheet, fewer than the 74 of the previous spring season. Vogue quotes the publicist Lucien Pagès calling it a season of asserting creative visions a year after fashion's major shake-up. Owens is not new to the calendar, and his own approach, repeating and deepening a vocabulary, contrasts with houses where new directors are still defining theirs.

Reports differ on the staging

Coverage does not agree on every detail. Dazed describes a grated metal runway, while other summaries we saw of the show described a runway over a reflecting pool with fountains and mist. We could not resolve the difference from the sources, and we have used only Dazed's account here. If staging matters to you, check the designer's own page, which lists the show.

Why it matters for American readers

Owens's runway work sets a tone for the experimental end of the market. Industrial webbing, sulfur-dyed denim and cage shoes are the kind of ideas that tend to appear later, softened, in wider fashion. We have no sales data to support a trend call and offer it only as context. The show notes' focus on release after sacrifice may speak to readers who read fashion as commentary.

How to see it

Runway images and the designer's notes are on his website and in Vogue's Spring 2027 ready-to-wear listings. Stores that carry the line will show pieces closer to the season's delivery. Pricing and availability are not covered in the sources we read.

What we could not confirm

We relied on one detailed review, Dazed, supported by Vogue's calendar guide and a search summary of other coverage. We did not attend the show. Production details such as the number of looks were not stated in the sources. The designer's quotes come from show notes as reported by Dazed. The cover photograph shows Owens at Paris Fashion Week in September 2018, not at this show.

FAQ

When did Rick Owens show Stone?

On Oct. 1, 2026, at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris, as part of the Spring/Summer 2027 women's shows.

What are the key materials?

Industrial nylon webbing woven into double-duchesse satin, sulfur-dyed Japanese denim and tulle.

What does Stone mean for Owens?

He gives it three meanings: stoicism, release after sacrifice and opposition to stone throwing.

Sources

*Cover photo: Myles Kalus Anak Jihem, Wikimedia Commons, *[*https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Rick_Owens_Paris_Fashion_Week_RTW_Spring_Summer_2019.jpg*](https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Rick_Owens_Paris_Fashion_Week_RTW_Spring_Summer_2019.jpg)* (CC BY-SA 4.0).*